Homemade Mask

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Homemade Mask  Fun for kids: how to make a homemade mask
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Whether you're headed for a masquerade (a masked ball), acting in a play or you're out trick-or-treating on Halloween, a plaster mask is an inexpensive costume option with tons of potential. Bring your personal touch to your mask by using colour or adding feathers, flowers or anything you like!

Supplies
Tools
  • Hobby knife 

Materials
  • Bandage plaster (available at hobby stores or pharmacy)

  • Water

  • Newspaper or drop cloth to protect clothing and floor

  • Vaseline/petroleum jelly

  • White paper-based modeling clay (available at hobby stores)

Directions

How to Make a Plaster Mask

from wikiHow - The How to Manual That You Can Edit

Make the base mask

  • Prepare your work area. Lay down newspapers or a drop cloth to protect the workspace and floor.
  • Cut a bandage plaster into strips. Make 10 strips that are about 2-3 inches wide by 3 inches (5-7.5 cm x 7.5 cm) long.
  • Cut two base layer strips. Make these two strips 1 inch (2.5 cm) wide and 3 inches (7.5 cm) long, these will form your base layer.
  • Have your subject lay down. It is easiest to lay on the floor, facing up.
  • Rub petroleum jelly all over the subject's face. Place it especially at the hairline, on the eyebrows, and around the sides of the nose. If you skip this step, your subject will experience serious pain when the mask is removed!
  • Begin the first layer of the mask. Dampen one of the 1 inch (2.5 cm) strips and lay it diagonally along the nose, starting above the left eyebrow and ending next to the right nostril (\).
  • Continue layering. Dampen the remaining 1 inch (2.5 cm) strip and place it diagonally in the opposite direction (/), forming an "X" across the bridge of the nose.
  • Prepare the forehead strip. Dampen and place a larger strip across the forehead, overlapping the tops of the "X", smoothing the plaster as you go.
  • Add the remaining strips. Avoiding the triangle from the tip of the nose to the midpoint of the upper lip, repeat the dampening and placement of strips until there are none left. Cut any strip to size as needed.
  • Examine your base layer for weak areas. Check to see if any skin shows through. Check to see that the pieces are overlapping properly and are not too spread out.
  • Start the second layer. Focusing first on the weak areas, begin the second layer. This time use 2 inch x 3 inch (5 cm x 7.5 cm) strips as much as possible to create a uniform layer.
  • Take a break and let the mask set. Cut strips or clean up a bit before applying the third layer, as you want the mask to set, but not start drying.
  • Commence the third layer. For the third layer, begin at the edges, and fold the tails of the strips down around the edges of the mask to smooth them out. This gets rid of the sharp corners left by the initial layers.
  • Begin to build any prominent features. For example, a bigger nose, eyebrow ridges etc. Do this by adding narrow pieces in layers and smoothing into shape.

Remove the mask

  • Allow the mask to dry. Leave it to dry until your subject feels itchy. At this point, the subject should begin to gently move his or her face: Lift eyebrows, crinkle nose, etc.
  • Remove the mask. When the subject no longer feels "stuck" to the mask, gently slide your fingers along the edges to lift it away, moving your fingers inward toward the center of the mask as you lift.
  • Place the mask on a rack to dry. Let it dry completely before adding more features. Overnight is best.

Put your own touch on the mask

  • Attach additional elements with more strips. If you want to add large components, it is best to attach and coat them with additional plaster strips. Use the same overlapping techniques you used for the base. Things that you may wish to attach include such appendages as a beak (fold a paper plate in half) or horns (use cotton candy/fairy floss tubes or cones), or big bumps (scrunched up newspaper).
  • Sculpt detailed changes. For more organic changes, such as higher cheekbones, a bulbous nose, or a ridged forehead, paper-based modeling clay is the medium of choice. Spread a base layer of the clay onto the mask, then add pieces strategically till the mask feels and looks right.
  • Allow the mask to dry overnight again before painting or sanding.
  • Use a 1/4" (.63 cm) drill bit to drill holes. The holes will be for adding such items as wire, yarn, or elastic. Or, you can just use a sharp object and carefully work a hole into the sides of the mask by hand.
  • Try it on for size. Wear your finished mask with pride. 

Warnings

  • If you plan to do an ambitious mask with many layers, you may want to give your subject a small roll of cloth or an old pillow for neck support. Make sure that you get a very patient subject.
  • Test a little of the bandage plaster on the back of the wrist of your subject 24 hours before making the mask. If your intended subject has a bad reaction, this is probably an allergic reaction and you should find another subject.
  • Read the warning on the plaster because it may heat up and burn you!

Article provided by wikiHow, a wiki how-to manual. Please edit this article and find author credits at the original wikiHow article on How to Make a Coconut Shell Hanging Basket. All content on wikiHow can be shared under a Creative Commons license. 

Video

Tips
  • For a half-mask, follow the bottom edge of the cheekbones for a clear line. See the photo above.

  • The best way to create facial features is to build on what's already there, rather than trying to make sweeping changes from the beginning of the mask. Once you have a nose to work from, "feel" how you want to change it and go from there.

  • Many masks today are attached to a headband with wire, allowing the wearer to easily remove the mask without losing it.

  • Hobby varnish can be used to seal the mask if you want to weatherproof it or simply preserve it.

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